Snake Charming

WALK, CLIMB, WALK, CLIMB.
WALK, CLIMB, WALK, CLIMB.

Day 7: I drove up into the canyons around Santa Fe yesterday, where you see the kind of scenery found on postcards. I wanted to see the Pueblo cliff dwellings in Bandelier National Park. Turns out you can’t drive your car into the park in the middle of the day, but a 25-minute shuttle ride will take you up there. I don’t care for buses, to say nothing of one straining to make it up and down a mountain. Took a Dramamine, got on the bus.

The shuttle drops you off at a visitor’s center, and from there you have to walk up about a mile to the site. The dwellings are caves cut out of the volcanic rock about a thousand years ago. You can climb up wooden ladders and look inside. I hate heights. I climbed the ladders. There weren’t a lot of other people up there, so it was a little lonely, but peaceful and quite moving.

I decided to take the nature trail coming back down, which is a little longer hike and there are numerous signs reminding you to “Stay On The Path.” Like I’d leave the path. Rounded a curve and startled a snake lying in my way. I think it was just a garter snake, as I have seen them in my basement. Normally I might have let out a little scream, but he slithered away pretty quickly. Also, I was under the influence of Dramamine.

Then I ran across this deer, who was chewing something and showed no interest in me at all. At least I think it was a deer. Why does it have such long ears?

DEER MINDING ITS OWN BUSINESS.
ANIMAL MINDING ITS OWN BUSINESS.

I was happy to see the visitors’ center again, although I’m really glad I went to see the cliff dwellings. Drove back down into Santa Fe, got a little lost. I fear I am slowly becoming the weary traveler. Perhaps a day of shopping will help?

Artfelt

museum-of-international

Day 6: Okay, I know it’s really Day 7, but Day 6 wore me out. It was my favorite day so far though. Spent most of it on Museum Hill, where you will find the International Museum of Folk Art. Really you should just get in the car and go there right now. The Girard Collection is unbelievable; had to go through twice to absorb it all. The Between Two Worlds Collection will make you weep.

Walked across the plaza to the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, where the current exhibit in the sculpture garden, “Courage & Compassion,” may be the closest I come to enlightenment on this trip. All of the pieces are made by Native American women artists. When you go into the museum, the first thing you notice is how much the Indians honored the mother and the sacredness of Mother Earth. Gotta love that.

I was going to go to the Botanical Gardens, but it was sprinkling by then, so I went to the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art instead. Not many people left by that time. The man who took my money said the docent had left for the day so maybe he should show me around. Mike Gonzalez, retired volunteer, easy to look at (gray hair, neat beard). This seemed like a good idea to me. Of course, he was very knowledgeable about which pieces came from Mexico, Peru, Columbia, etc. – and that’s the important thing, right?

Came back to the hotel, spent a half hour in the hot tub. Thought about blogging, but then I started reading a book instead. (I brought along fifteen books and nine audiobooks on this trip, which made sense to me at the time.)

Went to get something out of the car this morning and saw a black dog playing in the yard adjacent to the hotel. I think this means I am supposed to go into the lands outside of Santa Fe. (Pretty sure Georgia O’Keeffe had a black dog.) So that is where I’m going.

Santa Fe Holiday

WHO DOESN'T LOVE A GOOD MARIACHI BAND?
WHO DOESN’T LOVE A GOOD MARIACHI BAND?

I think I could have timed this better. Who knew Santa Fe was the hot place to be on Memorial Day weekend? The hotels and restaurants are full, the shops and galleries all doing a booming business. People can’t seem to get enough turquoise jewelry, Mexican skeleton art, and things woven by genuine Indians. There’s an art fair featuring local artists down at the Santa Fe Plaza, as well as an antique car rally, so it’s quite the colorful assembly of folks milling around.

Given the chaos, of course, I had to put my personal quest on hold. I walked the streets of historic Santa Fe today, listened to the Mariachi band in the Plaza, went to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, and hunted for Western-style boots for the grandkids. You’d think there’d be a lot of kids’ boots for sale in New Mexico, but no. What you do see all over are Minnetonka Moccasins, which I can buy in Minnetonka, Minnesota, where I happen to live, for half the price.

I imagine things will slow down some by tomorrow. I’m going to take one more day of sight-seeing in downtown Santa Fe, then head for the quiet of the New Mexico countryside. There must be a lot of buttes and things out there, places where a body can sit and contemplate her insignificant spot in the universe. Georgia found enlightenment. Why not me?

Animal Magnetism

WHY ME?
SPEAK! FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, SPEAK!

Day 5: I drove out to see the Taos Pueblo today, and while I was visiting the public restroom there, a little dog walked under the door and into my stall. I think it was a chihuahua. He just looked at me, turned around, and walked back out, but it was unnerving, you know? If the animal kingdom is trying to tell me something, they will have to find someone who can speak more clearly.

What else? While I was parked at the labyrinth yesterday, a bird shit on the inside of my car door. So there’s another thing that doesn’t happen every day, and it’s pretty hard to see how it could be interpreted as an auspicious sign. I know I’m not enlightened yet, but come on.

In less scintillating news…

Went to the Kit Carson house and museum in Taos, which was more interesting than I expected. Not many people there, mostly just me and the bikers. There’s a motorcycle rally north of Taos this weekend in Red River, but it seems they like to ride the loop through the mountains to Eagle Nest, Angel Fire and Taos, so they are just everywhere. They aren’t especially scary bikers. More like Denis Hopper wannabes and about the same age. Plenty of black leather and big noise though.

This afternoon, I drove the seventy miles to Santa Fe without getting lost, oh yes. Pretty drive through the mountains with the river down below, and you could even see some people white-water rafting.

Being Memorial Day weekend, it’s crowded just about everywhere. Can anyone explain why Memorial Day is a week early this year? It is messing up my vacation. At 4:30 in the afternoon, there wasn’t an open stool at the bar in the St. Francis Hotel, where I am now ensconced. I don’t know if it’s even possible to find enlightenment without wine.

So Close

ENLIGHTENMENT: IT'S IN THERE SOMEWHERE.
ENLIGHTENMENT: IT’S IN THERE SOMEWHERE.

Day 4: This is the labyrinth I walked this morning. If you’re unfamiliar with them, a labyrinth is not a maze but a tool used to enhance meditation. Or some people just walk them because they like to. This is one of six in the Taos area that the public can walk.

There was no one else around at the labyrinth this morning, so it was quiet and peaceful, and I was pretty close to the end, when a big dog jumped up on me from behind, knocking me off my path into the adjoining path. He was a friendly dog, but still. I never saw him coming. This is a metaphor for something, I thought. Right, but what?

But I Don’t Want to Go to Denver

A GOOD PLACE TO LAND WHEN YOU COME OFF A MOUNTAIN.
CAME THROUGH HELL, LANDED HERE.

Day 3: How did I end up in Denver, you ask. I don’t know. Clearly I should not be left alone on America’s highways. A sign came up saying “23 miles to Denver,” and then there was nothing for it but to forge on and turn south at the Mile-High City, on the assumption that New Mexico had to be down there somewhere. I mean it’s a state. No one could miss a whole state.

“New Mexico Welcomes You!” Yes! The end is in sight, I thought. But it wasn’t. Because my first stop in New Mexico was Taos, and why would I drive all the way to Santa Fe only to turn north and drive back to Taos. Why, when there’s this mountain road that goes straight to Taos? Well, not straight to Taos. Because it’s a MOUNTAIN.

What a beautiful drive. What a long, long, beautiful drive. Mountains, forests, rushing streams. Rain, fog, two-lane road with approximately 99 hairpin turns. Yellow warning signs with pictures of bear and elk and moose (one was all shot up – the sign, not the moose) and even a couple of cows. I will never be off this mountain, I thought. I will never find Taos, New Mexico. Never see my three daughters and six precious grandchildren again.

But, of course, I did find Taos. And I found the Adobe & Pines Inn, which is more charming than you can imagine, and if my brain wasn’t all foggy and fried, I’d tell you about it.

I have not found enlightenment yet.

Kansas: It’s Still There

REPEAT, REPEAT, REPEAT AND REPEAT.
REPEAT, REPEAT, REPEAT AND REPEAT.

Day 2: I like road trips. You just aim the car, set the cruise control, put Linda Ronstadt’s Greatest Hits in the CD player, and sing along as loud as you want (Desperado, John, Desperado). The best thing I saw today was a green van with a sign in the back window: “Need job. I’m Irish!” Which I’ve never thought of as a ringing endorsement, but who am I to judge.

Glitchy things can happen too, of course. Like if you plan your own route and that route includes leaving the straight and endless Nebraska freeway and taking a secondary road southwest into Kansas because, theoretically, it should be shorter and faster if your eventual goal is Santa Fe, right? 383 to 183 to 83 to I-70 West. Simple, except that something happened to 383, I think somewhere around Norton, Kansas, and it got lost and then I was on my way to Oberlin and then Selden and then Colby, which I never intended to visit in this lifetime, but there you are, and let me tell you, once you hit the back roads of Kansas, there isn’t a lot of traffic, like literally almost none, and no human faces at all, just fields, miles and miles and miles of fields, and a few black cows. And a goat. Just the one.

Sires_0066

I am not enlightened yet.

Go West, Old Woman (or How I Sought Enlightenment on the Road To Santa Fe)

ALL READY FOR ENLIGHTENMENT.
ALL READY TO BE ENLIGHTENED.

So I retired. Oh, way back in October of last year. I could say many things about retirement, but I’m still adjusting. When I’m done adjusting, I’ll let you know.

And with retirement one joins the ranks of aging nomads. Retirees are a restless group, it seems. I have had it in my head for some time to visit Santa Fe. Because I’ve never been to Santa Fe. Also, I think of it as a kind of post-retirement journey, a search for enlightenment if you will. Enlightenment has eluded me till now. Other people have been having epiphanies right and left. I am still waiting for mine. I think I deserve one.

I’ve been planning the trip to Santa Fe for a couple of months, so of course, on the eve of departure I came down with a really horrible cold. These are the drugs I ingested yesterday while packing: Dayquil, Nyquil, acetiminophen, aspirin, Claritin, 12-hr. sudaphedrin, a decongestant, an antihistamine, liquid cough suppressant, spray cough suppressant, and several throat lozenges. At least I think that’s all. I don’t know. I’m still dosing. The result is that I seem to have packed for an extended tour of the Australian Outback instead of two weeks in the southwestern United States. At some point I must have decided to just throw in half my wardrobe and sort it out later. Then there’s the bags of food and CDs and books and audiobooks and things I might need, you never know (a heating pad, a clothesline with little plastic clips), 30 bottles of water, meditation chimes with a little mallet, maps, tour books, pens, highlighters, and a sackful of over-the-counter medications. Truly, I looked in the trunk this morning and thought, what the hell. Then I got in the car and left. Drove for six or seven hours (who’s counting) and landed at the Comfort Inn in Omaha.

So here’s what I discovered on Day 1:

My little Honda Fit can make it from Minneapolis to Omaha on a tank of gas.

72 mph is my speed limit. Not 70, not 75. 72. Go ahead and pass me going 85. I don’t care. I’m all drugged up on Dayquil.

Our American way of life wouldn’t last a day if they took all the trucks off the road. Big trucks rule the freeways!

Freeway rest stops on a Tuesday afternoon are mostly inhabited by people with gray hair. And gray-haired people leading around even older gray-haired people. And people with dogs.

Truck stop waitresses are always friendly.

Nebraska does not welcome you. You know how all the states have those roadside greetings as you’re entering and leaving. (Thanks for visiting Minnesota! Welcome to Iowa!) Not Nebraska. Apparently they just want you to hurry up and get the hell out.

I am not enlightened yet.

Last One to Leave, Bring in the Dock

cabin

We are selling the family cabin this week, the last thing my father left us. He built it in 1968, with the same independence and drive he showed in everything else. He pored over plans for vacation homes, contracted the work himself, and kept meticulous records of it all. I know because forty-six years later, I still have the receipts, stapled together in thick stacks and tallied in his neat handwriting, detailing every purchase from the stones in the fireplace to a 45-cent package of nails.

The plan he chose featured a spacious layout, with huge beams in the living room and a wall of windows overlooking the lake. And although the decor is classic ’70s and the furnishings just as dated, it still stands as beautiful and solid as it did then. Good bones, don’t you know.

On Jan. 4, 1970, at age 45, my Dad died in a horrible accident. He spent one summer at the lake, doing the things he loved and putting up with a host of friends and family. And now that the cabin too is passing away, it seems like someone should tell his story. Not the whole story, but some of it. I wouldn’t want anyone telling my story bit by excruciating bit after I’m gone. I’m sure you wouldn’t either.

dad army

My father’s name was Andrew Simon. He grew up in Northeast Minneapolis, the second of six children of Lebanese immigrants. They owned a small grocery store where all the kids at one time or another were compelled to work. Northeast in the 1940s was a patchwork of immigrant neighborhoods. Dad was the rebellious kid. He ran around with his friends, got in trouble and in general just caused a world of grief for his parents, who weren’t the most patient people in the world to begin with. I’ve heard some stories; there are many more I haven’t heard and never will.

I know Dad was kicked out of a Catholic high school for boys and had to finish up at the public school. I know once he got mad at a streetcar, stopped his car on the tracks and refused to budge, throwing the streetcar line off-schedule and all the passengers into a tizzy.

When World War II came, he joined the army, serving most of his time on steamy little islands in the Pacific. At the age of 19, while still in the service, he married my mother, the smartest thing he ever did. She was a farm girl, sweet, lively, independent and good good good.

Lu-Andy-in car_2

After the war, with a wife and two small daughters, my father worked all kinds of jobs. He had always been smart, but who knew he was industrious and ambitious too. At various times, he sold vacuum cleaners and sewing machines, owned a nightclub (briefly) and a successful insurance agency (for several years). He opened a liquor store. He bought a small plane and learned to fly. Finally, he started a business installing coin-operated equipment in apartment buildings throughout the Twin Cities. The business grew and grew until he became, for his place and time, a rich man.

June 1963 #2

Dad wasn’t perfect. He wasn’t a perfect husband or a perfect father. But those stories don’t need to be told here, I think, if ever. He was fair and generous to a fault. He understood human frailties. He took care of us and left my mother well off. Well, she never loved any man but him her entire life. With only a grade school education, she kept the business running for 25 years after he died, always underestimating her gifts.

And Mom kept the cabin. In the summers we raised our kids and grandkids there, watching them swim and ski, fish off the dock and paddle around in the paddleboat. We cooked, played games, sang along to country songs and watched hundreds of sunsets.

At the cabin there is a little Jesus shrine near the lake with a plaque engraved with Dad’s name. I imagine the new owners will take it down now. I have no desire to go back. Losing the cabin is a hard, hard thing, but let’s face it, families are about loss and families are about building up. Memories fade, memories are made. Really, that’s all it’s about.

June 1963 #2

•••••••••••
Subscribe to this blog under Email Subscription in the right column.

Minnesota, the Mercy State

Something odd is going on. It started when I didn’t file my taxes in April. There was some kind of screw-up in the accountant’s office, the taxes didn’t get done, and I ended up filing both my state and federal returns three weeks late. Great. Pay the penalties. Get on with your life.

Then last Thursday I got a letter from the Minnesota Dept. of Revenue. You’ve seen that letter. You throw it on the kitchen counter and say you’ll open it when you’re more rested or maybe drunk. Because how likely is it that that envelope holds good news? Not very.

I opened the letter. It said: “Your Individual Income Tax account has come up for review because your payment was received late. Because this is the first time you have been late, we have abated (canceled) the penalty. If the penalty has already been paid, you will receive a credit or refund within 30 days.”

And my reaction was, since when? Since when does the government at any level show mercy? How is it that my tax penalty wasn’t automatically and mindlessly sucked into the vortex that is the state’s General Fund? What next? “Free Brats & Beer Night” at the Capitol?

It occurred to me that it would be nice to see this kind of altruism in other unlikely places. When I took a header off my bike last month and chipped my front tooth, did the dentist I’ve been going to for years (and his father before him) say, “Well, this is the first time you’ve come in with a broken tooth, so hey, this one’s on us”? He did not.

And when I brought my then-new car back to the Honda dealer with electrical problems, only to discover that a mouse had been chewing on the wiring, did they say, “This is your fourth Honda and your first service call due to a malicious rodent. Let’s just cover this under the warranty”? They did not.

So I say, Thank you, Minnesota. Thank you, land of 10,000 lakes, the loon and the lady slipper. Thank you, faceless bureaucrat with a human heart. I am proud to call myself a citizen of this fine state!

images

•••••••••••
Subscribe to this blog under Email Subscription in the right column.